From La Paz to Puerto Escondido

Posted by Admiral
May 02 2010

First stop – Ensenada Grande     

We departed La Paz on a beautiful Saturday afternoon.  First order of business is to check out with the Port Captain.  I’ve been told he speaks English, but I always speak Spanish with him.  Today went well.  He finally wished us “Buen Viaje!”  (Good travels!)  We motored out of the Bay and found wind a little after two o’clock.  We motor-sailed since the seas were lumpy, and we were anxious to get to our first stop with time left to relax.  Other cruising friends will be following us tomorrow – Doug and Linda of Aquadesiac and Robert and Kathy of Blue Dolphin.  Steve and Arlene of Ubuntu got out here a day or so earlier and were already in the anchorage when we arrived at 24 deg 33.836 N 110 deg 24.259 W.  There was enough breeze to kick up some white caps, barely visible in this picture looking back at the El Mogote peninsula resort north of La Paz:

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We got some splashing at the bow.  It was such a beautiful day that Muggs is beginning to actually like this!

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Skipper had a nap:

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We anchored in the middle lobe of Ensenada Grande.  There were other boats, including Ubuntu, already taking the prime spots in the larger south lobe.  The boat in this picture helps to illustrate the geography:

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Next day, Aquadesiac and Blue Dolphin came into Caleta Partida, about an hour south of our location.  So we went back and joined them but not until the skipper had his breakfast!

to Puerto Escondido 025 At Caleta Partida, we launched the dinghy

to Puerto Escondido 028 and went ashore.  We didn’t get very far, though.  The beach was covered with Fiddler crabs!!  Little crabs, about 1 1/2 inches across, with one tiny claw for eating and out great big claw for mating!  Ouch!  They were all scooting across the beach like an army – in rows and columns as far as the eye could see!  Got our first pic of Aquadesiac:

to Puerto Escondido 029 Look at that water!  As we dinghied over to the beach, we saw two long (3 or 4 feet long) very thin fish – perhaps some kind of trumpet fish – chasing each other, or so it seemed.  They were swimming verrry fast in about 30 inches of water.  Very cool sight.

That evening, we all gathered on Blue Dolphin for drinks and things.  Linda made an outstanding cheese—taco dip.

Next day we departed for Evaristo on the peninsula of Baja.  Today the wind was so fine that we set the spinnaker.  Through the wonders of friendship and high technology, Aquadesiac contributed these terrific pictures:

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Muggs took a few pics from the deck:

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Many thanks to Rooster of Rooster Sails back in Alameda for this beautiful sail!

to Puerto Escondido 055 Aquadesiac making tracks toward Evaristo.

to Puerto Escondido 068 At anchor in Evaristo – 24 deg 54.69 N 110 deg 42.33 W.

Those of you who have been paying attention may recognize this unusual sailboat. :

to Puerto Escondido 070   This is a 80 foot custom-design schooner, hailing port Panama, that we watched during its arrival at Marina Palmira last December.  In this anchorage, they were truly just one of the crowd.  We ALL were moving around at anchor that night.  There was a bit of breeze.  The anchors tend to hold well here in the sand, and no one dragged.

Blue Dolphin is also a ketch:

to Puerto Escondido 071 That is Aquadesiac immediately behind and to the right.

We gathered on Peregrine for drinks and good times:

to Puerto Escondido 063 Robert and Kathy – Blue Dolphin

to Puerto Escondido 065 Doug and Linda – Aquadesiac

Next day (Tuesday, April 27, if you’re keeping track), we headed for Puerto Los Gatos.  Left early afternoon.  Early morning starts are for fishermen!!  Today, I saw manta rays jump.  That is an incredible sight which I don’t think we will ever catch on film.  There is no warning, and they are only out of the water for about two or three seconds.

We sailed today, then motor-sailed, then sailed again.  It was a beautiful day.  Caught Blue Dolphin in the act:

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Then Tucker, the Dog:

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Took some travelogue pics:

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Arrived at anchor around 6:00 pm – 25 deg 17.8 N 110 deg 56.6 W.

At this port, we gathered on Aquadesiac for drinks and things (I think – it all runs together in my mind!).

At Puerto Los Gatos, there is a long reef that sticks out into the bay.  Next morning, we all congregated there by dinghy.  The divers – Kathy on Blue Dolphin and Doug on Aquadesiac – went diving, Larry snorkeled, and the rest of us watched from dinghies.  Linda and I took a walk on the beach with Tucker:

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Skipper and I decided to move on again that afternoon (around 1:30), so we headed to Agua Verde.  Today we had the very best sea life sightings of the trip so far – first manta rays up close enough to see their true size and shape, then two dolphins at the bow long enough to take over a dozen pictures.  Here are the best:

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We anchored in beautiful Agua Verde around 5:00.  Position 25 deg 30.938 N 111 deg 3.757 W.  We radioed Fonatur Escondido (the harbor master at Puerto Escondido) to confirm our scheduled arrival for tomorrow on mooring ball #70.  We thought we were the only boat to travel today, but Ubuntu pulled in around 7:00. 

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Looking the opposite direction, just a few minutes later:

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More travelogue pics as we left the next day:

to Puerto Escondido 137  Solitary Rock

to Puerto Escondido 140 Pyramid Rock

What do you think – Mexico’s Mt. Rushmore, maybe:

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We are headed to Puerto Escondido.  We had a great sail today for about 20 minutes.  Then Mother Nature kicked in some more serious stuff – 25-30 knots of wind with 5-6 foot waves at 2 seconds.  We were bouncing around a lot.  I used the floor as a table to make my cereal.  But the boat did fine, as usual.  There is a tight spot for navigation through here.  We were a little nervous, but the waypoints we had worked perfectly.  Another boat followed us because they were nervous!  Blue Dolphin caught up with us and passed us:


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Arrived at Puerto Escondido around 2:00 pm.  25 deg 49.45 N 111 deg 18.53 W.

There is no internet service here because there are so many boats gathered for the LoretoFest.  Cell phones are at one bar, but I successfully made a couple of calls.

Friday we are back in the swing of land-based activities and spending money.  The four day break was too short!  There are many friends from La Paz here, though, and we are having another great time.

to Puerto Escondido 172 The Skipper and wench on the left are Jesse and Shanna of Jesse’s Girl.  Larry met Shanna last year on the ‘08 HaHa (OK, a year and a half ago, but everything around here goes by season, not the actual calendar.  For you working types, it’s sort of a cruiser’s fiscal year!)  Then Linda and Doug of Aquadesiac.  Muggs took this picture, and she apologizes for its awfulness.  It’s the only picture we’ve taken of people at this fest so far.

Friday and Saturday night, Larry learned some basics of juggling, and he actually did pretty well.  His best was three balls juggled for 4 rotations – not bad for a first-timer.  I took some still-camera video of Friday night’s first efforts which I will forward to the webmaster.  Look for future postings!

And now, time is running out.  Last night (Saturday), Muggs finally met Larry and Dianne of SeaToy.  They were also on the ‘08 HaHa.  They have built a home down here and consider themselves local residents.  They are mucho fun and saved Larry from mental destruction after his fairly awful HaHa ride that year.  There will be more about them later as we stay here a few days and visit and see the sights.  I have just been told that we are going for a hike to a water fall.  That is an amazing concept – a waterfall in the desert!  Off I go so that I may report to you later whether it is real or the old fakeroo.

Now, if I can just get a few minutes of my allotted on-line time, I will upload this report.  See you again real soon!

2 Responses

  1. Elizabeth says:

    I wanna come see the dolphins!!!!! I’m way jealous


  2. Admiral Muggs says:

    Well, just read the next posting — dolphins and mantas and whales, oh my!

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